In the cruising
community boats are usually crewed by couples (most hetero, some same sex). A
few are crewed by families with children. Occasionally a boat turns up with no
one aboard except the person at the wheel.
People who sail
alone are known as single-handers. Single-handers are different from the rest
of us.
Take Dave, for
instance.
We met Dave at
an isolated anchorage on the Pacific side of Panama.
“When I started
out,” Dave said, “I wasn’t sure I’d be able to slow down enough to enjoy
cruising. I’ve always been a real Type A person. Go, go, go all the time.
“But I’ve
become very laid back. Just to give you an example, in Costa Rica I rented a
car and drove from one end of the country to the other.
“I saw it all: Liberia,
Puntarenas, San Jose, and Golfito. I went to the Cloud
Forest at Monteverde and to three national parks: Barra Honda, Palo
Verde, and Volcan Poas. I relaxed, took life easy, and did the whole
country . . . in only ten days.”
I didn’t mention that we’d stayed at our first
Costa Rican anchorage for six months.
Barbara brought
up her favorite topic. “Do you have any books to trade?”
“Well, maybe.”
“Maybe?”
“I have some
books to swap. But I won’t trade them for books written by women. I never read
books written by women.”
“Oh,” Barbara
said. “I see.”
(Dave had no
idea how dangerously thin that ice was.)
Dave and Shelley try to talk
Dave asked, “Do
you happen to have an account with Whiskey Oscar Mike? I’d like to call my
girlfriend in Los Angeles tonight, if you don’t mind. I’ll reimburse you for
the charges, of course.”
WOM was the shortwave
call sign of the AT&T High Seas Service. The service, now defunct, patched
radio transmissions from boats into the international telephone network. The
charge was $5 a minute, three minutes minimum.
(At the time, 1993,
people who were paid minimum wage worked half a day to earn $15.)
When Dave came
aboard that evening I powered up the radio.
“Whiskey Oscar
Mike, Whiskey Oscar Mike, Whiskey Oscar Mike, this is Maruba. Over.”
“Good to hear
from you, Maruba. Whiskey Oscar Mike.” The faint voice of the AT&T
radio technician came through the static from New Jersey. “You haven’t called us for quite a while.
Where are you?”
I reported our
latitude and longitude.
“You’re still
in Panama, I see. Give me a few seconds . . . Now our antenna is pointed right at
you, Maruba. Do I sound better?”
“You’re still
breaking up, Whiskey Oscar Mike. Any chance you can do better than that?”
“I’m afraid not,
Maruba. The propagation is bad tonight. I’ll hand you over to the marine
operator.”
“Good evening, Maruba,”
said a dusky voice. “What can ah do fo you tonight?”
While the
operator dialed the phone number, Dave fumbled with his ears. I hadn’t noticed he
wore hearing aids.
“I couldn’t
hear what she said,” he complained.
Another woman’s
voice came on. “Hello?” I handed Dave the mic. To create a pretense of privacy,
I joined Barbara three steps up in the pilot house.
The call did
not go well. Not only was the propagation bad, Shelley in Los Angeles seemed to
be speaking into a cordless phone, perhaps with weak batteries.
The two parties
got tangled in their Overs. They often misinterpreted each other. The marine
operator kept cutting in to repeat what Shelley had said. But Dave couldn’t understand
her either.
This call is
getting expensive, I thought. I went down and took the mic from Dave.
The Marine Operator and I team up
“Marine operator,
this is the captain speaking.”
“Good evening,
captain. These folks seem to be having problems tonight.”
“Yes they are, operator.
Maybe you and I can help them out.
“Let’s try this.
You repeat everything the lady says. I’ll make sure the party at this end
understands, then I’ll repeat what he says.”
A four way
conversation began.
I explained to Shelley
that she was being invited to visit Dave in Panama.
“I’ll have to
find out if I can get off work,” she said, with some hesitation. “When does he
want me to come?”
“As I kept
trying to tell her,” Dave said, “I plan to be in Panama City by the 15th. I hope to transit the Canal
around the 20th. Then I’ll leave for the San Blas Islands early next month.”
I repeated
those words into the mic.
The marine
operator, repeating for Shelley, responded, “But when should she come?
Dave started to
repeat, “As I said, I plan to be in Panama City by the 15th. I hope to transit . . .”
Dave divulges, finally
What’s with
this guy? He calls up a woman and asks her to drop everything and fly to meet
him in a foreign country. And he won’t tell her where she should go, or when,
or what will happen when she gets there, or how long she’ll stay. He's just telling her his plans and expects her to figure out the rest for herself.
“Marine Operator,
stand by please . . . Dave, do you actually want Shelley to come to Panama?”
“Yes, of course
I want her to come.”
“When would you
like her to come?”
“Around the 17th, before I transit the Canal.
Then she can go through with me.”
“And when would
you like her to fly back?
“Two weeks
later, before I leave for the San Blas. About the end of the month.”
“Okay, Dave,
will you trust me to handle this?”
“Well . . . go
ahead.”
“Okay, Marine
Operator, we’re ready now. Shelley, my name is Don. Can you hear me?”
“Pretty well
Don. You’re breaking up some.”
“Got a pencil
and paper ready? I’ll try to speak slowly and clearly.
Shelley likes the plan
“Dave wants you
to come to Panama and go through the Canal with him on his boat.”
“Oh, that would
be fun.”
“Book a flight
to Panama City on the 17th if you can . . . and a return
flight two weeks later, near the end of the month. Several major airlines fly
here, Shelley.”
“Okay, got
that.”
“Dave’s not in Panama
City right now but he’ll be there by the 15th. He’ll call you then so you can give him your flight number and
arrival time. Then he’ll be waiting for you at the airport.”
Dave looked
puzzled. Why did it take so much talk just to arrange a visit?
Shelley’s answer was garbled.
The marine operator
interpreted for her. “Tell Dave she’d be thrilled to come. She thinks she can
probably get off work okay. And she’ll be waiting for his call on the 15th.”
We talk about a bear
Then Shelley
said something about a bear.
“I didn’t get
that, Shelley.”
She repeated,
but I still didn’t understand.
“The marine
operator stepped in. “Captain, Ah think she said to g’im a big beah hug.”
“Dave, Shelley
said to give you a big bear hug.” Dave nodded and shrugged.
I wondered who,
exactly, was expected to deliver this hug?
Dave gets his phone bill
“Maruba, ready to write down your time and charges?”
I grimaced. The
call took almost half an hour. Dave was not going to be pleased.
“We couldn’t
give you a good connection tonight, Maruba. Ah’m charging you just the
three minute minimum. That’ll be $15.”
“Thank you for
that, operator. Really appreciate it. And thank you for all your help.”
“Mah pleasure,
Captain. Aw’ll pass ya’ll back to the radio tech.”
“Goodnight Maruba,”
the technician said. “Call us again soon. Whiskey Oscar Mike clear on this
frequency.”
Dave invited us
over for lunch the next day. As we tied up to his boat we were greeted by a
big, energetic, friendly Airedale.
“That’s Bear,”
Dave said.
NEXT POST
TBD
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